How to Tile your Bathroom by www.tradesmenireland.com
If you are tiling an existing bathroom, remove all the old tiles, wallpaper, flaky paint, loose material etc. It is better to remove the sanitary ware, (wash hand basin / w.c. / shower enclosure) when possible so that the ware sits against the tiles when finished. Leave the bath in place unless you are replacing it. Stabilise (seal) the walls using a pva adhesive (polybond). I would recommend painting the ceiling at this stage with paint that is suitable for bathrooms. Then measure the centre of all walls both horizontally and vertically.
There is one golden rule to use when tiling....... STAND BACK AND MAKE SURE IT LOOKS GOOD TO THE EYE If you are using a border tile it is vital that you place the tile at the best possible position to suit the window, the ware and the ceiling. The border tile may run below the sill, above the sill or even sit on the window sill, this all depends on the height your window is from the floor and the number of full tiles from the ceiling until your chosen border tile height. I like to see a tiled sill in place of a wooden or pvc sill but this is down to the personal preference of the householder. It is best to have a full tile at the ceiling and put the cut tiles to the bottom of the wall because when you enter the bathroom you are more likely to look up than down. Also try not to have small cuts going into the corners.
Mark the centre of the wall and place the edge of the tile on this mark, now measure the tiles up to the corner. What size of a cut have you? If you find it is relatively small, go back to the centre mark again. Now, place a mark on the centre of the tile, place the centre of the tile on the centre of the wall and measure the tiles into the corner. Does this look better? When you are working on a window wall, again, centre the wall and measure the tiles going into the corner. Also bear in mind the cuts at the window openings. Try not to have a small cut tile around the window opening. Also remember to allow for the tile edging strips. It is better to spend time at the setting out stage rather than flying ahead and then realising you would have been better starting at a different point on the wall! (marry in haste......repent at your leisure!)
Lets recap. 1) Prepare the walls. 2) Paint the ceiling. 3) Centre the walls 4) Set out the tiles, taking into account the border tile if used. (Some tiles also have a pencil border which is generally placed just below the tile down from the ceiling). Handy tip: Do a dry run....Place the tiles on the floor, put a tile against the skirting board (skirting board acts as the ceiling) now place the tiles down from the skirting board using the tile spacers, put your border / pencil border in the required positions. Measure your bathroom ceiling and transfer this measurement to your dry run. This will give you the height to fix a level timber batten (2 x 1) on the wall to support the tiles while they are setting. (Most ceilings are 8 high but do vary in different properties). I prefer to butter the tile. This is where using a small pointing trowel, you place adhesive on the tile itself in 4 / 5 equal dabs ( 4 corners and the centre) approx. 25mm (1) in from the edges. The reason for buttering is that some walls are uneven and this ensures the tile is properly stuck to the wall. (You can also use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive onto the wall) Now place this tile at the starting point and press firmly.
Now butter another tile and place this one on top of the first tile again pressing firmly. Dont forget the tile spacers. Proceed with the tiles vertically until you reach the ceiling. You may have to adjust the batten slightly at this stage. Now get your spirit level and make sure the tiles are plumb (vertical). It will help to place a batten vertically against these tiles to keep them plumb. When tiling, it is advisable to use spacers in the vertical joints as well as the horizontals. Remember always stand back and look at your work. You can always adjust tiles before they have set. When you have laid all the tiles around the room, remove the horizontal batten and fill in the gap left at the floor with your cut tiles.
When you have finished laying the tiles clean them with a sponge and water. It is much easier remove adhesive when soft than when it has set! It is advisable to let the tiles set for 24 hours and then grout them. Before grouting remove the spacers! To grout tiles put approx 25mm 50mm (1 2) of water into a clean bucket and add the grout stirring until you achieve a creamy consistency. Do a small section at a time e.g. 1800mm x 1800mm (6 x 6) work the grout into the joints with a squeegee until full. Wait approx. 10 mins or until the grout begins to dry and then sponge the tiles clean, at the same time you can smooth the grout joints with your finger. When you are more confident you can try a larger area, keeping an eye on the setting time of the grout. Always wash the tiles as you go. Generally 2 washes with cold water will remove the majority of the grout. You will notice after washing the tiles a dust will form. Wash once more with hot water , when this has dried, polish (rub) the tiles with a soft cloth (old tee towel or similar) to bring a shine to your tiles.
Tools required: Pointing trowel / notched trowel, spirit level, timber battens, tile cutter, tile nippers, hammer, steel nails / screws, sponge and cloths. Wet tile cutter or angle grinder for cutting shapes in tiles. Please remember to use protective goggles and safety clothing when required, when undertaking any building work. If you are not totally confident in your ability to carry out DIY / Home Improvements then log on to www.tradesmenireland.com where you will find all the tradesmen you need to carry out your building project.
